We use one of the best UV Inhibitors available in our epoxy (HALS) to protect from yellowing over time.
HINDERED AMINE LIGHT
One of the most important classes of antioxidant for long-term heat protection of polymers are the so called hindered amine light stabilizers (HALS) which are very effective inhibitors against free radical induced degradation of polymers at low and medium temperatures. This class of amine stabilizers is based on 2,2,6,6-tetramethyl-piperidine derivatives. They are often employed as light stabilizers, particularly for olefins which explains their naming.
We have tested our epoxy under extreme conditions as well as every day conditions. We’ve poured lighter fluid on it and set it on fire, we’ve also set boiling pots and hot plates on the surface. *We always recommend using a heat protecting pad and never set direct hot items on the surface of the epoxy for at least 60 days to allow for a solid cure to its hardest point.
The Deep Pour Epoxy intermittent heat test: up to 400 degrees
The Table Top & Countertop Epoxy intermittent heat test: up to 400 degrees
The Crafting Epoxy intermittent heat test: up to 300 degrees
Our Table Top & Countertop Epoxy has a much higher hardness rating and scratch resistance than the crafting epoxy and its much thicker to give a “Wet Gloss Look” after cured. It has a workable time of about 30 minutes.
Our Crafting Epoxy was designed for a more wide variety of uses so its not as thick which allows for less bubbles and longer workable time for crafts such as tumblers, jewelry, cheese boards and the like. Its super clear but not as lustrous gloss as our top coat. Its probably the best for general uses and all around crafts with epoxy.
Absolutely you can.
Heres the secrets to deep pours, the deeper you are pouring, the cooler it should be in the room. Heat will play a big roll in how fast it cures and if it gets too hot in certain areas.
The best way to explain it is like this… Lets say you are pouring a river in a table thats 5 ft long, and 3 inches deep but the actual width of the river is thin, then you will want to drop your temperature in the room to around 65-70 degrees. The thinner the area, the hotter its going to get. If you were to pour that same length table but the width of the river was like 5 inches or wider, then you can keep your temps at the recommended 75-80 degrees and not worry about the epoxy overheating.
Mixing paints and acrylics with epoxy is not recommended even though it will somewhat work. Results will be less than desired.
Epoxy Resin is a byproduct of oil. So acrylic based, water-based and even some oddly blended oil-based pigments don’t mix well with epoxy. They can get clumpy and even leave a weird film on the finished product. \
We recommend Mica powders, concentrate/solvent based pigments as additives to create your desired colors. Many of these are available in our shop
Powders like Glow powders and mica powders can also be incorporated in our epoxy as long as the powder doesn’t exceed 5% of the total mixture.
Always test small if you do try outside our recommendations… but we do have some color options within our site if you need.
Bubbles are common. A simple way to eradicate them is by using a heat source like a heat gun or a small torch. Lighter = No (You will burn your finger off).
Also, we have special formulations which naturally have fewer bubbles overall, but depending on the volume being mixed, and how you are mixing it can create more bubbles as well. Using a deep pour epoxy such as the deep has a viscosity like water so you wont see hardly any bubbles using THE DEEP. Table Top Epoxy is much thicker so when mixing bubbles will appear, but dont worry, since the top coat is applied in 1/8 inch thickness they are easily removed.
PRO TIP: When mixing the epoxy resin and hardener…
the more volume of mixture you have in a pot, the more chemical reaction. This creates heat. To reduce the heat, mix the product efficiently within 3-5 minutes and a get the mixture out and spread across the project.
The longer it stays in a pot the more heat. More volume = more heat.
More heat will not only create more microbubbles but it can make the cure brittle like glass.
We are big fans of hand mixing with a mixing stick. That being said, it really depends on the volume you are mixing and what epoxy you are using. For THE DEEP – Deep pouring casting epoxy, we are usually using large amounts, so we will mix with a drill for 5 minutes or until you do not see any “swirls” in the mixture, it should be crystal clear once mixed.
If you are using THE TOP – Table top and counter top epoxy, we base it on volume. If we are mixing 32 OZ or less we will mix by hand. Because this epoxy is much thicker in viscosity it is not made for pouring anything other than a top coat or less than 1/4″. We usually pour for an 1/8″ top coat. Mixing small amounts with a drill will make tons of bubbles and require much more attention than if you mix by hand. You will still get bubbles in a small mixture, but they will release with a torch or heat gun if you have not poured too thick, and your temperatures are correct. (see FAQ about temperatures)
THE DEEP – Deep pour epoxy has incredible pot life and workable time. You could leave this in a bucket for many hours and it will not overheat, or thicken on you. You literally have all day to work with it. The set up time on the deep pour because of its low heat and thin viscosity is between 36-48 hours after mixing. Light use or sanding can be done between 48-76 hours depending on temperature, as colder temperatures will make it take longer to set up. This epoxy when cured is extremely hard and crystal clear and is heat and scratch resistant as well as UV resistant.
THE TOP – Table top and countertop epoxy – This epoxy is designed thicker, and not meant to be poured in large deep voids or rivers, etc. It is designed for top coating tables, counters, art, and the like. It is a self leveling glass like top coat. After mixing the set up time is approximately 30-45 minutes depending on temperature. Colder temperatures will take longer for the epoxy to set up and cure. Light use or sanding can be done after 24 hours if the temperatures are correct. This epoxy is heat resistant, UV resistant and scratch resistant for an incredible glass like top coat that will last.